Brazil
Reports
The Pantanal, and a Little Carnaval
My third visit to Brazil takes me from world’s largest wetland to the wildest Black-Tie ball on the Copacabana. I meet exotic wildlife, from the beaches of Rio to man-eating piranhas, swim with giant freshwater fish, and inside the Sambadrome too, surely the largest spectacle of communal creativity going. I’ve always loved Brazil, and now Brazil loves me back.
read reportA New Year, A New Brazil
The adventures continue, but it’s a return of sorts to the roots of Modern Gonzo. The old backpack, the familiar sensation of heading out into the world without a clue (or a guidebook), returning to my favourite country, with a good friend in tow. From Sao Paulo to Ilha Grande, Rio to Florianopolis, I encounter beautiful waterfalls, tall Dutch, long beaches and cluttered slums, while the weather plays havoc and life dances the samba.
read reportIguazu Falls, and Flying in Rio de Janeiro
Another night bus north delivers a good soaking under the spectacle of Iguazu Falls, runner up for Natural Wonder of the World. After shopping for contraband in Paraguay’s notorious freezone, I kiss Argentina twice on the cheek goodbye and enter the remarkable world that is Brazil. Before long, I am partying in Rio de Janeiro, gawking at dental floss bikinis on Copacabana before fulfilling a lifelong dream to fly like a bird under the wings of a hang glider.
read reportJericoacora - A Slice of Paradise
North towards the equator, I follow the buzz of Brazil’s famous beaches to the remote village named Jericoacoara, where I find my little slice of paradise. Settling into a week of sun and surf, I watch magnificent sunsets while capoeira dancers somersault in the sea breeze, cruise the coast in a dune buggy and drink freshly squeezed juices in the company of beautiful strangers, now friends. There is still magic in the world - it just takes an all-terrain bus to get there.
read reportTropical Storms in Olinda
Foiled by strong winds and raindrops the size of manhole covers, I divert from a beachfront paradise to the fading paint of Brazil’s colonial past. Encountering streets full of local colour and characters, I take cover from the storms with Darth Vader before getting intoxicated by the rythm and energy of the streets. Soon enough, it starts to feel like a Britney Spears video.
read reportSalvador and Morro de Sao Paulo
A zombie welcomes me to Salvador, the heart of African Brazil. Here, I wander charcoaled streets, staring at paint-chipped gothic churches and deflecting threats of unneccesary violence. Later, after bullriding a catamaran through a storm in the Atlantic, I find another coconut-perfect tropical island, losing a trusty friend to the power of the sea. Back in Salvador, it’s mini-carnival time to the soundtrack of drums, desperation and too many she-males.
read reportRio Redux and Life in Sao Paulo
It’s back to Rio to meet Jesus and sample the Amazon’s most potent berry, stroll on Copacabana and shop for bikinis. Another party hostel sends us packing to South America’s New York, the world’s third biggest city, Sao Paulo. Whether dancing at an underground samba rock party or an upmarket sushi disco, I find the city likeable, livable and rewarding for those brave enough to ignore the negative hype.
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