The rain dampens my search for Before Sunrise in Vienna, sending me instead to the grand Viennese musuems, churches and schnitzels. Too civilized and too expensive, I depart for my last stop in Europe, Budapest. Here I spend long hours in the magnificent thermal baths before heading south to stew with fish and kayakers from 60 countries. Returning to a wet Pest, I don a jumpsuit for a spelunking adventure in Buda that soon finds me lost deep in the cracks of inner earth.
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