The Other Side of the Brochure in Jamaica

« Return to Jamaica

Daggering is the latest dance craze, pushing the limit of whatever boundary protects dance from public rape. Previous crazes had girls on all four, shaking their heads violently to the point of neck injury. Daggering is as violent and passionate a sexual act as you can imagine, and the crowd scream their appreciation. But it’s not as raw as it seems; dancers rehearse with their carefully selective partners, showing off their skills, thriving off the response. Some of the Rude Boys break out into choreographed moves worthy of a Broadway musical, unrefined with the energy of the street. I’ve embarrassed myself countless times attempting local customs, but out here, if I attempted Daggering, well, I wouldn’t be so much laughed at, as taken outside the back and shot.

Kingston has a notorious reputation for violent crime, and our swell guide Carey is hesitant to let us stray too far. At Weddy Weddy, people weren’t overly thrilled to see us, and the few white faces in the courtyard did what nervous minorities always do, gravitated towards each other with nods of reassuring acknowledgment. I got the feeling that dancehall parties are far more than just nightclubs full of locals having a good time. In the context of slums, gang wars and unemployment, they’re a form of expression, release, and personal identity. Perhaps I’m reading too much into it, but I felt I like I had notched up one more authentic rung on the ladder of Jamaican culture.

In the back pages of the Destination Jamaica, I find a section devoted to the “real Jamaica”, the off-the-beaten path South Coast. There’s a write up about the community tourism projects in Mandeville and Treasure Beach, favourable reviews for Jakes, a mention for Little Ochis, where I used the Meet the People programme to meet its owner Blackie. Here, not only did I meet another friendly local, I got to feast at his fish shack rated as one of the best in the Caribbean, and learn the secret behind his mouth-watering jerk sauce. So, it appears everything I’ve seen and done is available to any tourist, anyone looking for the other side of the tourist bubble, the grittier underside of a glossy full colour promotional book. With my limited time, I helped myself to just a small taste of Jamaica, bursting with music and faith and heartache and joy. Now get me a pool, a pina colada and a palm tree.

Caves Branch
Belize

Gonzo Gallery for The Other Side of the Brochure in Jamaica

view full gallery

Tweet