Running Riot in Bangkok

« Return to Thailand

Bangkok is a circus, notwithstanding the vagina acrobatics. I know that people either love it or hate it, but let’s be frank, everyone loves a circus. Arriving on the notorious Khao San Road at midnight, that’s exactly what I found. This small stretch of road has become the capital of Bak Paking, the ground zero of independent and budget travel. It is what Vegas is to gambling in America, or perhaps what rioting is to disenfranchised youth in Paris. South East Asia, encompassing Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Malaysia and kin, has become the number one backpacker destination because it is cheap and easy and beautiful and did I mention it is cheap? And everyone going anywhere, especially when high season kicks in around November 1st onwards, will in all probability come through Khao San Road. And get stupid.

The street was crammed with a cross section of today’s backpacker; duos of young (mostly) blonde girls from (mostly) England, Holland and Sweden staking their first claim of ferocious independence. You have the notorious sex tourist (for which Thailand is renowned for), easy to spot because they’re the overweight, balding-yet-ponytailed guys leeching onto beautiful Thai girls young enough to be their daughters. Here come the solo round-the-worlders, looking suitably haggard and putting on a brave face that they’ve seen this all before, which they haven’t. The honeymooners are in force, horny young couples delighting in the exotic before heading to the beaches of Phi-Phi in the south. Israelis are here, of course, sticking together at the north of the street, nicknamed Tel Aviv. And, unfortunately, we have the drunk, lecherous English football greasemonkeys, who make a point off slobbering and sweating over every women they see, and sometimes just each other. Mixed in, like pulp in fresh orange juice, are thousands of Thais, partying in the clubs, or selling anything and everything. This was my introduction to Thailand, walking down the street with my pack on, looking for somewhere to stay. After eight months on the road, I felt like my trip was just beginning.

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