Holiday in Cambodia

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I hate to compare, but I’ve been to the pyramids in Cairo, saw the sunrise over Macchu Picchu, walked the boulevards of Ephesus, gazed at the sun set on the Taj Mahal, and the complex of temples in Angkor slays them all. Them be fighting words, but after three days of exploring ruins that cover ten square kilometers and once housed a million people, it is impossible not to be overwhelmed by the architectural legacy and sense of history here in central Cambodia. Angkor is what remains of the once powerful Khmer empire that encompassed Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Vietnam from the 9th to the 14th century. It’s one of those typical “we were living in pig shite and they had plumbing” stories you hear about ancient civilizations, but, as everything else was built in wood, all that survives today are the stone temples. That Angkor remained intact after decades of civil war and a bloodthirsty dictator who wanted to eradicate history is a miracle in itself. With no restrictions about climbing here, there and everywhere, would they survive Modern Gonzo? (Ok, that’s a bit lame, but it’s the day before Christmas and I’ve just baked my brain on a white sandy beach).

Siem Reap is the nearest town, located just a few kilometers from Angkor Wat. Although Cambodia might seem like an exotic, dangerous destination, it packs in plenty of tourists, many of who fly in directly to Siem Reap, especially from Japan. The Cambodians appear to have hired an army of foreign tourism consultants, pricing and preparing an agenda that truly makes Siem Reap the center of the country, complete with international airport. A pass to the ruins costs $20US for one day, and $40 for three days. Naturally, two days would be ideal, but wandering about ancient ruins, most of which you could have to yourself, could easily soak up weeks. If ancient history is your gig, make that months. The scale of Angkor is what sets it apart - it’s like cramming all the abovementioned ancient wonders into one theme park. As the temples were constructed over a five hundred period, they vary in design and are a mishmash of Hindu and Buddhist influences. In short, fascinating, and terrific fun to jump all over, or climb the steep steppes that rise up to 60m in height. When you cross the stone bridge lined with angels and demons, and see the enormous carved heads of Angkor City gate, pointing in the four cardinal directions of the compass, it’s impossible not to get giddy. That Angkor was never a must-do on my trip suddenly seemed absurd. With a new group in tow, we hired a tuk-tuk and went exploring. Former South American GAP tour guide Isabelle designated me as team leader, insisting I’m a natural at cajoling a bunch of slackers like myself into some form of action. That’s just what I need, more career confusion. I chanced upon a young woman in a trance ceremony, dancing before Buddha surrounded by white-robed, bald headed nuns. Drummers increased the tempo, and shook and writhed for a half hour, before the tempo climaxed and she collapsed, passing out cold into the arms of the nuns. I asked a guide if it was somehow sexual, but he said it as strictly spiritual. Whatever is was, it was powerful to witness, and 100% not put on for tourists. If this were Phuket, she would have demanded 500 baht from the bewildered tourists.

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