Helsinki, Lapland, and the Midnight Sun

« Return to Finland

TV Land took over, arranging a permit for us to film anywhere and everywhere in the park, which had some pretty wild rides, each at a cost of about 6 euros a ticket. If my host wants to treat me to something, technically that falls within the rules and so we beelined it to Vuoristorata, the infamous wooden rollercoaster, or in Finnish, mountain track. The last time I rollercoasted was with a Norwegian pop star named Sondre Lerche at the Six Flags in New Jersey. Quiet and timid, he went nuts at the six mega-coasters at the park, one after the other. By the fourth coaster, I was green and swallowing my own puke. The dirty little secret of Modern Gonzo: I get intense motion sickness, quite easily. Save me from the pirate ship pendulum, and as for the spinning things – back, back I say, you spawn of industrial Satan! But Vuoristorata is the most popular ride in Finland, one of only two remaining rollercoaster’s operating as it does (the other is in Denmark), built in 1951, using the original cars on tracks that have fortunately been replaced over the years. With a harnessed manual operator, the driver can choose just how scary to make the ride, upping the speed, slamming into corners. TV Land means that we’d have to get multiple shots from multiple angles, and that the operator would do his best to freak us out. Although it looks pretty tame, like most of the old rickety rollercoaster’s still in operation, it is absolutely thrilling. I was almost ejected out my seat a couple times on each run, and poor Juuso was on the side that I slammed into at every sharp corner. In the front car, able to board before general admission, we ended up riding that sonofabitch NINE times, the crew taking turns too. Those in the line-up shot us dagger eyes for constantly taking the front car, but being good Finns, kept their feelings pent up to themselves. It was just the kind of Gonzo action I was craving – something unusual, out of the ordinary, unexpected, and a rollercoaster of fun. Dinner was an excellent flat crust pizza in a Turkish Pizza-Kebab shop, the daily special (tuna and pineapple) for just 4.90. That left me enough to catch one more tram, and get myself a beer at a cheap student watering hole. Here I met some more of Juuso’s friends, and at midnight, my experiment over, I could afford to buy a round of shots. We continued drinking back at Juuso’s place, and I crashed out on his large couch, as promised, as comfortable a sleep as the crew had back at the hotel.
And there you have it: a day of fun, sights, people and places in Helsinki, one of the most expensive cities in the world, on just 20 euros a day.

Compared to South America, Asia, or Eastern Europe, a visit to the northern countries of Scandinavia can be a quiet affair. Everything works, the streets are spotless, the trams run on time, the potential for unforeseen chaos is minimal. You can drink the water, eat the street food, and converse with just about anyone, since most of the country speaks good English. Add friendly hosts who seemed delighted in showing us a good time – from the Arctic Circle to the fabulous meals throughout – and in the end it was as easy an episode we’ve ever had filming, as a week I’ve ever had travelling. It wasn’t the first time I’d met huskies or reindeer, or walked beneath the midnight sun. But it was the first time I’d done it as a working travel professional, snacking on expensive bear salami (yes, they eat bear salami), staying in nice hotels, and focusing on what I do best: travel, and writing. If I wanted chaos and a little bit of madness, I wouldn’t have to wait long. Just a few hours train ride away, I would next be returning into the big paws of the great bear herself, Mother Russia.

29 July, 2009
Hotel Pio, St Petersburg
Russia

Gonzo Gallery for Helsinki, Lapland, and the Midnight Sun

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