
This section deals mainly with lessons I have learnt the hard way, or nuggets of advice I wish I had known before, quotes or silly observations I write down in my notebook, such as "While Gonzo was pretty cool in the Muppets, I always liked Kermit's nephew Robin, for obvious reasons."
The Modern Gonzo Awards - The best and worst of life on the road.
Rules of the Gonzo Traveler
Preparation
Modern Gonzo Tips
Esrock's Perfect Hostel - A Guide for Anyone Who Operates a Hostel
Tips from Fellow Travelers
The Tunes of Modern Gonzo
Personal Highlights from most countries I've visited
Previous Travels
Modern Gonzo Tales of Transport Hell
5 Reasons Why I Love/Hate Low Season Travel
10 Reasons Why Traveling in 2005 is Better Than It Was In 1995
What Esrock Learnt in South America
Esrock's Top 12 Tips for Travel in India
10 Things Rock & Lindsay Learnt in Australia
Rock & Lindsay's Overview of Lessons Learned from a Year Off Traveling
Rules of the Gonzo Traveller
Never turn down a free drink.
No guidebooks (Internet is OK).
Be open to experience EVERYTHING
Know your limits, break through them
Believe in the Power of Smiling
IT is not an adventure. YOU are an adventure.
Never, ever eat food in a MacDonalds, Burger King, KFC, Pizza Hut etc etc (Using their bathrooms however, are OK).
Be positive, and know your blood type.
Where you are, is where you are meant to be.
A Gonzo Traveller has no rules (of course)
Preparation
Wear in your hiking boots.
Build a website when you can upload writing and pictures for when your laptop and camera gets ripped off.
The Library has all the Lonely Planets, Rough Guides and Let's Go books you'll need. You can't steal them though, so create your own basic country guides.
Create a phrase book for each country, print them on cards that fit in your pockets. Don't forget to print them though, like I did!
Your GP can give you free shots the Travel Clinic will charge for.
Get yourself a pack of cards and a pack of UNO for bigger group fun.
Don't book your ticket too early, it will just drive you crazy! I'd recommend a month before your leave.
Pack a pair of jeans. Yes they're heavy and don't dry quickly, but if you plan on hitting bars and clubs, you'll wear them more than anything else in your backpack, that I assure you.
When buying the five garments you're going to wear for the next 12 months, make sure they work well together (my gray shirt and my gray shorts...I look like a mole!)
Call the credit card companies and authorize your cards to be used in foreign countries.
Get an inflatable neck pillow...you might actually sleep on a flight, although your neck will want an apology.
Leave the shiny watch at home.
Leave space to buy cheap clothes along the way.
Budget more for transportation! Remember, you're traveling alot, and buses, trainsl, taxis, boats and internal flights are alot more expensive than you would think. Everywhere.
Even though you think you've got it covered, it's amazing how many things you remember to do the night before you leave.
Practice the "squat", you'll need those muscles when your ass is hanging over a hole you really don't want to fall into.
Put your Swiss Army knife and nail scissors in your backpack, not your backpack.
Like electric fencing in a quiet friendly neighbourhood, the wire mesh for your backpack only draws attention to the fact that you have something valuable to steal, and are distrustful of locals. Everyone I've met who bought one discards it as soon as they realize it is heavy and completely unnecessary.
Upload all personal info (banking details, passwords, scans of passports) to your webmail. Password protecting the documents is not a bad idea.
Check out any upcoming travel talks. I'm not just plugging myself here! Travel talks are a great way to get first hand info of destinations, ask questions, and also get that little bit more of inspiration you need to book the ticket!
Buy generic drugs, save money.
I've read that real travellers only take 2 pairs of underwear. Well, I don't. I take about 7. I must be a fake traveller then.
Budget for airport departure taxes (you know, when a country asks you to bend down and take it just before you leave?)
Set up a Skype account, save $$$ calling home at Internet Cafes (Skypeout lets you call landlines for pennies a minute!)
Check out the latest airline scares: Pack gels and tubes in your main luggage or prepare to face the steely eyes of some chump being paid $3 bucks an hour to ensure your flight safety. This tip is especially true if your toothpaste contains semtex (to explode nasty gum disease, y'know?) Remember MacGyuver? I bet he couldd make a bomb out of anything! He also had the meanest mullet. OK, OK...I'll move on now.
Modern Gonzo Tips
Beware what you read on the Internet (no irony here, nope, none).
Trust your instinct - it's amazing how loud it becomes before getting into a cab held together with elastics.
It's not about the quickest way from A to B, it's about how not to get lost
Every day, try and experience something new. Oh, and nothing makes you appreciate life more than when you risk it.
When walking uphill, especially at altitude, walk SLOWLY! You'll save your breath and energy and still reach the top.
Save the traveling days for when you don't have the squirts!
Buy a cheap stick before hiking the Inca Trail, it will become your best friend.
Book exchanges: Usually two for one or one for one plus a small fee. Hard to find good books, so prepare to read lots of airport material, mystery romances.
Take a digital pic of the hotel or place where you're staying. If you get lost in a foreign country, just show the photo to a taxi driver and it might help you get home.
Don't put your daypack in the storage above your head on night buses, Keep it by your feet. I also tie a shoelace connecting my bag and leg, in case I nod off and someone tries to lift it.
Get rid of the small change when you leave a country. Buy anything, because as soon as you cross the border, the change is worthless and heavy and cannot be exchanged.
Always keep an emergency stash of cash somewhere in your backpack. Sometimes you'll find yourself in a town without a bank, and unable to cash travelers cheques.
LCD headlamps have become really popular, but every time I put mine on I feel like a bloody miner in a coal mine, especially late at night in a youth hostel when I'm trying to read my book.
If you staying at a guesthouse in India, SE Asia, South America etc, calm your paranoia by using your own door lock. Just don't lose the key.
Floss. Sounds kinda silly I know, but travelers fall prey to gum disease because of their naturally weird diet and the stress of travel itself.
When a guide tells you to bring a complete change of clothes, bring a pair of shoes or sandals too.
If a stranger approaches you on the street, chances are they want to sell you something, or rip you off. Unless you've got the time or inclination for either, firmly move on.
Buy your history books (if you're into researching countries or regions) from Amazon's Used section. It will save money, and also the time spent going to 5 bookshops looking for something they don't have. (Central American history, it seems, is not a big seller).
Tips from Fellow Travelers
Keep a journal
Lose the travelers cheques, they're more hassle than they're worth and bank cards do fine
Don't start off in India
Most bags get stolen on night buses, when travelers store them above the seats. Always keep your bags with you.
When traveling in high season, plan ahead
Travel light
Shop around for tours, the biggest is usually not the best, nor the cheapest.
Try learn a little of the language in each country
Bring hand sanitizer
Avoid planning extensively - you find the best spots by speaking to people
Be bold with the food (except in India!)
Don't believe the bad stories
Keep an open mind
Don't always believe the advice or directions of the locals, sometimes they'd rather give the wrong information than admit they don't know.
Be positive about traveling solo!
Don't listen to other's advice, it's so personal you'll want to experience it yourself
Buy on the way, pack half, it's cheaper
If you like your boy/girlfriend, go travelling with them!
Shop around for your ticket, even reputable agencies can be rip-offs
Don't be embarresed about doing an organized tour
Be weary of "cosmic" travellers who seem to know everything!
Five Reasons Why I Love Travelling in Low Season
1. It's half the price, sometimes less.
2. Fewer people means more space, and a sense of discovery.
3. Don't need to reserve ahead.
4. Easier to chat to other travellers as everyone needs the company.
5. Better service, as locals appreciate your business.
Five Reasons Why I Hate Travelling in Low Season
1. Low Season usually translates as Bad Weather.
2. A lot of great restaurants, pubs, clubs and facilities are closed for the season.
3. When you find a wicked restaurant, pub or club, there's nobody in it.
4. It can get a little lonely if you're travelling solo.
5. Everyone tells you how great things are in high season.
10 Reasons Why Traveling in 2006 is Better Than It Was In 1996
1. Digital Cameras - you can take a million shots and know what you're getting, plus back them up, plus email them to friends, plus plus plus
2. The Internet and Webmail - everywhere you go, the smallest town in the desert, has an internet shop where you can check your mail, MSN friends, do some business, research your next stop, look at porn etc.
3. iPods - the days of listening to the same 20 CD's are over...it's time to choose your desert island library
4. Bank cards, credit cards and ATM's - cash is always at hand (usually), you don't feel like you're getting raped on travelers cheque commissions, even if you are on bank charges, and most places worth their weight take Visa
5. No smoking on buses - at least so far, those hell-bound 26 hour trips behind chain-smoking men with B.O are history
6. Goretex and microfibre - light and waterproof and oh so comfy
7. LCD lights - light and oh so bright
8. Cellphones - when you need to get hold of somebody, chances are you now can
9. Jumpdrives - backing up words and pics on the fly, around your neck
10. Pirated DVD's - they're everywhere, a cheap way to spend the night with a guilty conscience
10 Things Rock & Lindsay Learnt in Australia
My friends Rock and Lindsay travelled around the world for a year...inspiring me to do the same. Here are some the lessons they picked up along the way.
1. If you want to speak "Aussie", just shorten the words and add an "ie" sound
to the end. For example: I just got out of Uni last week in Brizzy. Had
a nice Barbie with the folks and left my Sunnies in the park. Must have
been too much grog me thinks!
2 Don't touch it, it will kill you. It's poisonous, dangerous, or hungry.
Underwater there are poisonous fish and coral, crocodiles, killer jelly
fish, sharks. Then you've got the worlds most dangerous snakes and spiders
lurking in every corner...well, ok, maybe not that bad, but I did see some
pretty impressive HUGE spiders and a few deadly snakes here and there.
3.Small, dirty, cramped, over crowded dorm rooms are expensive here...and are
the norm for backpacker travel. We bought a tent instead and camped as much
as we could...mornings were often filled with layers of beautiful tropical
bird songs. (instead of young, drunk, backpackers)
4. Koala "Bears" are not Koala Bears...they're just Koalas. It's a marsupial,
not a bear. If you call it a bear (like we do at home) they'll laugh at you
and correct you. Save yourself the embarrassment.
5. Most of Australia is hot, dry, inhospitable desert that will kill you if
you don't know what you're doing. Australia’s 20 million residents are
mostly on the East Coast close to the long strips of nice beaches.
6. The West Coast is baron. We drove 3,500 kms and saw alot of desert,
shrubs, and dead kangaroos. Instead of towns, like on the East Coast, there
are roadhouses where you can buy a cold drink, refuel, and camp with some of
the local fruit picking types (super hick) before you get up and drive
another 350 kms to the next roadhouse.
7. Four wheel drive cars with big metal bars on the front are popular here.
They're perfect for killing Kangaroos. The highways are lined with dead
rotting carcasses. I've discovered Australia's national animal, the Roo, is
viewed as nothing more than a big pest. They smash up your car when you run
into them and eat your expensive green grass on the front yard. I've heard
they taste allot like chicken though.
8. Surfing isn’t as easy as it looks. However, I found a good way to learn.
Look for the surf schools in the morning. They always take their students
to the beaches with the smallest, easiest waves for learning. Start with a
longer board (a 7 or 8 footer) and move into the shorter boards when you're
feeling confident.
9. Working a shitty minimum wage job that you don't like wasn't as much fun as I
thought it would be ...even in a beautiful warm tropical country. Avoid it
as much as possible.
10. Snorkeling and Scuba diving is amazing here. I swam with a 100 year old
turtle as wide as my arms length, a manta ray bigger than a car, sharks, a
pod of dolphins, numerous types of fish, sea snakes...all in the wild! Then
there are all the wild animals on the land and in the sky.. it's a
spectacular country for interesting wildlife.
Previous Travels
According to an old aquaintance, when taking a bos kak (a crap in the woods), always take off your pants in case you get chased by a wild animal.
In the first world, traveling with a backpack means you're broke, in the third world, it means you're loaded.
You're never alone with a blank page and a pen.
Someone should make a movie where the lead actors come from England, Ireland, America, Australia, South Africa, Canada, New Zealand and Scotland. It's all English right?
The moon rose last night like a zit on a teenager - at first boiling red, then sickly green and finally a mighty whitehead in the evening shade (Zanzibar).
I went to a two day music festival in Belgium. For the sake of posterity, the line-up was: Radiohead, Beck, David Bowie, Smashing Pumpkins, Jamaroquai, David Byrne, Live, Sheryl Crow, Paul Weller, Fun Lovin Criminals, Prodigy, Daft Punk, Supergrass, Suede, Silverchair, Spearhead, Zap Mama and Placebo. When in Europe, find a festival!
Stay away from anti-gravity amusement rides.
Kibbutz - an unnatural environment that leads to unnatural behaviour.
Photographs and Words Copyright © Robin Esrock, 2005-2008
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