You have to go Gonzo in New Zealand, where people are base-jumping every few minutes from Auckland's major landmark, parking lots have reverse bungee swings and the tourism industry is devoted to scaring the be-jezuz out of you. As everyone is too busy blowing their cash on the fun stuff, the backpacker accommodation and budget food options are terrific, although transport can be steep. There is simply too much to do and too much to see, especially if you only have two weeks. With a little (lot) of help from some fantastic companies and people, I gave it the Great Big Gonzo Blowout it deserves. Here's where I ate, slept and played along the way.
Auckland
Queen Street - since this is where you'll probably be hanging out most of the time, this is where you'll probably do most of your eating. Budget wise, the Turkish donor joints offer good value (Istanbul Cafe had a mixed donor plate that was yu-u-u-u-umy). There's also a Nando's, which can never be turned down when in town, and the food court inside the Village Cinema complex has some good value meals from various nations. Food Courts - the peak of global civilization.
Rotorua
Fat Dog Cafe & Bar - Good food, well priced, enormous portions, and every popular. 1159 Arawa St. T: 222.0312
Triple 1 Five - After my skydive, I felt like treating myself to a steak. It's been a while and those endless cows in those green pastures just seem to scream "eat me!" I tried Macs Steakhouse but they were full (and a little rude, it has to be said) so I popped across the road to Triple 1 Five. After waiting 10 mins for a menu, and another 10 minutes to order (why is it the more I pay for a meal the worse the service seems to get?) , the massive 400g porterhouse arrived on my table, completely raw. The concept is that you cook it yourself, on a block of heated volcanic stone. Sounds interesting, but not when you're hungry. Let's just say the steak was extra-rare that night. 1115 Tutanekai Street. T: 347.1115
Relish - Cafe with yummy food (try the hash for breakfast, oh boy!) . 1149 Tutanekai St. T: 343.9195
Queenstown
Lucianos - Delish Italian, a little stretchy on the backpacker wallet but excellent value.
Bombay Kitchen - Going for Indian? Get some Bollywood and a yummy lamb vindaloo at Bombay Kitchen.
Naff Cafe - Breakfast and coffee, although I still don't understand how scrambled eggs and toast can cost $1 less than a burger with all the fixins. Savoury muffins will fill ya right up though.
Auckland
Auckland City Backpackers - ACB is slap bang off Queen Street and with over 500 beds, bustles and hustles. Dorms are clean and comfy, there's huge internet and lounge areas, a jacked tour operator, employment help, and two bars for day or night. It's always going to be a little impersonal with this many people, and hey, are those refugees in the kitchen? But it's right on the Airbus stop, well run and a good launch pad.
Waitamo Caves
Kiwi Paka - Pretty much the only backpackers located right in Waitomo Caves, with a great restaurant (check out the pizzas) and comfy beds and bungalows. It's new and spotless, as opposed to the pub down the road. T: +64 7.347.0931
Rotorua
Cactus Jacks - The style of backpackers in New Zealand seems to weigh heavy on the very big and very sterile. That's why it was so refreshing to find Cactus Jacks, a "western-themed" hostel brimming with character. I haven't come across nicer proprietors than Joe and Sheryl during this whole trip - who else brings out daily crumpets for tired and broke backpackers? Maybe it's because they share the same name as my own parents, but I felt right at home here. Sipping a Windhoek Lager in the thermally-heated bath is just what you need to unwind after a hard day of Gonzo action. 1210 Haupapa St. T: 07.348.3121. E: cactusjackbp@xtra.co.nz
Wellington
Wellington Downtown Backpackers - I blew in late in the evening, and caught the first ferry out in the morning, so thanks for the comfy bed (hey, this used to be a hotel where the Queen stayed during her visit in the 50's) and delicious tuna salad. Oh, and for being a two minute walk from the bus station, and a two minute walk to the ferry. 1 Bunny St. T: 4.473.8482
Abel Tasman National Park
Old MacDonalds Farm - One of the backpacker dorm-camping joints, a little up the road, small kitchen, but cosy enough.
Franz Josef
Rainforest Retreat - On the stop of both Stray and Kiwi Experience buses, so expect lots of action at the Monsoon Bar and Restaurant in the nights. You might want to keep the door closed though, the sand flies are bastards and eat your toes for breakfast. Pity the spa didn't work - could have used it after spending 5 hours in hard rain on the glacier.
Queenstown
The Last Resort - It shouldn't be. Probably one of the best hostels I've stayed in the whole trip. Why? Because it is small (18 beds), cosy, feels like a home, has all the amenities (free internet, great DVD library), central, and an Alaskan Malamute named Cocco with puppy dog eyes to break your heart. Goes to show: The massive, faceless backpacker centrals can't compete with a little house on a stream with a lot of heart. 6 Memorial Street. T: +64.3.442.4320 E: thelastresort@xtra.co.nz
Auckland
Skyjump - Base-jumping off the tallest tower in the southern hemisphere is a perfect start to your extreme New Zealand adventure. You're strapped into a wire harness that slows your fall, and deposits you 192m later gently on your feet. As you fly down, you can actually get a moment to realize, hey, you're flying. Like Superman. Coming to get the bad guys! The hardest part is taking the leap, but then taking leaps always are. The view from the top gives you a fantastic 360 view of Auckland in all its glory. NZ$145 for a jump, and if they're not busy, maybe another one too. E: bookings@skyjump.co.nz T: 0800.759.586
The Movies You gotta love cheap movies on Tuesdays, especially when the cinemas are state-of-the-art and wonderfully comfortable. Sit back, relax, and take in some cinema should it be raining, and go Gold Class (sofas, menus, bar) if you're rich and tasteless.
Waitomo Caves
The Legendary Blackwater Rafting Co - Floating down a dark canyon, looking at the glowworms sparkling above my head, I felt a rare kind of magic that brought tears to my eyes. Combined with the abseiling, caving and slides, this was a unique adventure well worth the trouble of getting out to Waitomo. $90NZ - $175NZ p/p, depending on package T: +64.7.878.6219
Rotorua
Nzone - Just do it, embrace the fear. Can't believe they took Dune's "I must not fear" for their marketing. Totally pro, excellent photos and DVD footage if you're so inclined. $245NZ/9000ft, $295NZ/12000ft, $395NZ/15000ft T: +64.7.345.7820
Agrodrome Adventures - A one stop thrill shop to bodyfly with Extreme Freefall, Swoop, Bungee and Agrojet. The packages mean more bang for your buck. Located a few miles outside the city, oh it looks easy from down there!
Kaitiaki Rafting - Where else are going to raft over a 7m, Grade 5 waterfall, the highest vertical drop in the world? If the spirits are with you, you might stay afloat, but either way, you're going to get soaked, and the dreadlocked guides ensure everyone is gung-ho in the spirit. $75NZ T: +64.7.357.2236
Zorb - Something to do because it will bug you if you don't. Get inside the Hydro Zorb on a hot summer day and be a sock in a spin cycle. The dry Zorb is best kept if you want to see your lunch again. $45NZ, but packages available with Agrodome Adventures. T: +64.7.357.5100
Off Road NZ - Punish the Suzuki on the 4x4 terrain course (it looks easy until you get to the 80degree vertical drop. Then chase the clock on a speed racer, than hang on for a monster 4x4 ride with independent front and rear steering. $145NZ for 4x4 Safari, SprintCar, Monster 4x4 package T: +64.7.332.5748
Luge - Probably more fun if you go in a big group and race each other down, the luge affords some great views and low-to-the-cement speed. $5NZ for one ride, $25NZ for five (excluding Gondola) T: +64.7.347.0027
Planet Bike - To attack some of the best trails in New Zealand, contact Edd for the best bikes, advice and tips of the trade. In Rotorua, Edd is Mr Bike. $59NZ for 2 Hour Guided Ride, rental prices. T: +64.7.348.9971
Riverjet - A jetboat that looks like the Batboat twists you down the beautiful Waikato River for a few hours at the Orakei Korako thermal park. On the way back, you do some spins, fun for the family, a few thrills for the less Gonzo-inclined. $125NZ for 2.5 hours.
The Pig & Whistle - Pub and grub with loud, live Top 40 band jamming out to locals and packers and everything in between. Corner Haupapa St and Tutanekai St, or just follow the music.
The Grumpy Mole - The local dance/bar/piss-up, where hormones get fuelled by liquor, bouncers have stares of concrete, sport on the big screen, tattooes to the fore. Only gets going late. Arawa St.
The Stray Bus - There are a couple companies that make it easy for mostly solo travellers to get around, and Stray is the best of the lot. Routes run throughout the country on a hop on-hop off basis, the guides are enthusiastic, and Stray tends to attract a more diverse crowd than the others, and hit a few places off the beaten track. A good way to see a country, and meet some good people while you're doing it. T: 09.309.8772 E: enquiries@straytravel.co.nz W: http://www.straytravel.co.nz
Abel Tasman National Park
Abel Tasman Sailing Adventures - If you catch some good weather, don't pass up a full day trip on a sweet catamaran, complete with trampoline to soak up some rays and a yummy BBQ on-board an anchored boat. The scenery is gorgeous, and this is the best way to see it. Hike back after being dropped off at a beach along the way. Flexible packages. T: 0800.46.7245 E: bookings@sailingadventures.co.nz W: www.sailingadventures.co.nz
Franz Josef
Franz Josef Glacier Guides NZ - You see the glacier, and you want to get stuck in, amongst the crevices, through the tunnels of blue ice. You can catch a helicopter, or, take a cheaper option and go for a hike. All the equipment is provided (wets, boots, crampons, gloves, socks) and the guides hack away in the ice to create easy steps. If the weather is forecast for "Heavy Rain", I'd avoid and wait til the sun shines because the rain is not fun (believe me). But it's a unique experience, albeit one with a slow pace in a spot that can get pretty crowded. T; 0800.GUIDES E: walks@franzjosefglacier.com E: http://www.franzjosefglacier.com
