Malaysia stands apart in Modern Gonzo for a couple of reasons. Firstly, the Tourism Board graciously assisted me with accommodation, otherwise I probably would have stayed in Kuala Lumpur for two weeks to recharge my batteries after India. Their assistance translated into proper hotels, and like some roughed-up travel refugee, it took a while to reacquaint myself to how most people choose the travel. It was also Ramadan in Malaysia, so things were quiet. And to top it off, the monsoon season was in full swing so just about every travel destination had shut up shop. Still, that never stopped a horse from reaching the finish line - here's where my two weeks took me.
Kuala Lumpur
D'Tandoori - Located at the base of the KL Tower, this was the best Indian food I tasted in weeks, which says something considering I had just left India. Malaysia has long been known to cook up better Indian food than the Indians, and after munching on this tender tandoori chicken, I could see why.
Estana Curry House - My first introduction to Malaysian cooking, and a good one. The sauces and spices are thick, I smothered the rice and immediately decided it was time to put back on all the kilos I had lost in India.
Penang
Nasi Kander - It's not a place, more of a style of food that Penang has perfected. I could be wrong about this, but if I asked for Nasi Kander, I got a plate of rice with several types of sauces liberally poured all over it. Accompanied with some sweet honey chicken, it was a taste sensation (think coconuts, chilie, limes, tamarind and coriander)
Nandos - I couldn't resist South Africa's best food export, especially when I stumbled across a franchise of the flame-grilled peri-peri chicken right here in Malaysia!
Evergreen Laurel Cafe Buffet - If I have to choose a meal to always remember, it was the spectacular dinner buffet at the Evergreen. Firstly, it was my birthday, and being alone, I decided to celebrate with food for company. Secondly, I've never had perfectly grilled steak, chicken, lamb, duck and salmon shashimi on one plate. It was the sauces that knocked out my tastebuds - perfectly sweet and spicy. Plus, all the desserts were cut into bite-size pieces, so I tried everything, without wasting anything.
Kota Bharu
Nasi Kander - Just opposite the hotel was a place that had the formula down, especially the honey chicken. No-one spoke English, but I would point and say "nasi kander!" and a plate of steaming deliciousness would arrive.
Secret Recipe - A Malaysian franchise famous for their cakes, but while everyone was fasting, I was grateful to be able to sit down and enjoy a spicy chicken pasta dish for lunch. Maybe it was the guilt, but it was extra tasty, and the mango cake was scrumptious too.
Kuala Terengganu
Nasi Dagang - This is the local speciality, a tuna fish curry with sticky rice. Yummy. For other local and Malaysian delicacies, check out the Central Market.
Travellers Cafe - In high season, I'd imagine this cafe buzzing with budget travellers. Because of Ramadan, it was just a few staff, breaking their fast and watching Blue Crush on HBO. Nice waves.
Kuala Lumpur
Hotel Istana - Five star and central. When I walked in, bedreaggled and India-rized, they thought I was looking for the "other" hotel Istana. Poor guys. They're probably still cleaning the ring I left around the tub.
Penang
Emerald Laurel - Another five star, catering mainly to business travellers, so it's away from the popular tourist spots located around Batu Ferringhi. Great buffet!
Kota Bharu
Rennaisance - The building towers next to a shopping center, and the R is as stylish and modern as you'll get up in quiet Kota Bharu. My room was bigger than my apartment back home!
Kuala Terengganu
The Grand Continental - The premier business hotel of the city, located down the road from the express bus station but a little bit out of town. They took great care of me.
Kuala Lumpur
The Beach Club - Just down the road from the Petronas Towers is a strip of bars, the Beach Club being a popular choice. Being Ramadan and low season, it was quiet save for a a couple of middle-aged businessmen watching football and looking sad.
LowYatt Plaza - Looking for cheap electronics? This is ground central for computers, cellphones, games, MP3 Players, and everything else you can think.
Penang
The Tropical Fruit Farm - Over 200 species of fruit grow in this show farm, and the tour was fascinating if somewhat pricey. Feast on the king of fruits (durian) and the queen of fruits (mangosteen), learn how a pineapple grows, and the medicinal uses of the dragon fruit. At the end, enjoy the exotic fruit buffet and the best fruitshake the side of Brazil.
The Butterfly Farm - I checked out the Butterflyhaus in Vienna and was disappointed to see just a few guys flying around. Fortunately, this is the real thing. 4000 butterflies, some of them the size of birds, are housed on the farm, along with giant scorpions, tarantulas, snakes, and bugs you really don't want to have to deal with too often. If you go at 10am, you can even get to play with some of them too.
The Spice Farm - i though the spice garden, resting on acres of lush jungle, was pretty. The mosquitos, resting on my hairy pink legs, thought I was pretty too. After walking around for ten minutes I counted seven bites and high-tailed it. Bring the mozzie lotion!
Kek Lek Si Temple - The largest Buddhist temple is SE Asia, the complex is well worth a visit. The giant statue of Buddha is the tallest of its kind in the world, and the views of Penang are pretty sweet too. Also worth checking out are the Thai and Burmese Buddhist Temples, located opposite each other in town.
Kota Bharu
Rain- If, like me, you should find yourself in Kota Bharu during monsoon season, prepare to party with a lot of rain, and not much else. The historical district is nice to walk around, and the central market is good for a photo, but otherwise, October is not the time to come here, as the islands are all shut up.
Kuala Terengganu
Ping Anchorage - If you need help organizing what to do and where to go, speak to these guys. They're the biggest agency in the country, and have packages for all budgets.
Tasik Kenyir - SE Asia's biggest man-made lake is well worth checking out before or after the islands. A day trip to the waterfalls is great fun, plus the forests poking out the water is something unique. Bring your fishing rod if that's your gig.
