Laos is cheap, but with the hospitality and friendly sincereness of the locals, it's hard to not enjoy the comforts of good food and accommodation. Service might be a little sloppy, but that's just the pace of life here. Nobody is in a particular rush to do anything, and soon you'll be just like them. These are some of the places I found myself, bearing in mind that many restuarants did not appear to have names or addresses.
Pakbang
The Indian Joint - Pakbang is a rat-town pitstop on the two slow boat to Luang Prabang, and one night is more than enough. But we did find outrageously good Indian food, freshly prepared and salivatingly delicious (the baijin bharta will live forever in my tastebuds). It didn't have a name, but you can find it directly underneath the Phanthavong Guesthouse (turn right at the street when the boat drops you off.)
Luang Prabang
Joma - Imagine a Starbucks with good coffee, amazing deli foods, sharp service and European efficiency. Now imagine one-third of the price for everything ($1.60 for a large latte) and welcome to Joma. The French-owned bakery was a guilty pleasure, but the food was great and for just a brief moment each breakfast, you could be somewhere at home.
Nazim Indian Restuarant - Minesh is addicted to Indian food, and being a vegetarian who can blame him. We stumbled across Nazim, our tastebuds still sizzling from Pakbang, and it became a firm fave. The butter chicken was all it could be, and for $2 a dish, you can make your own buffet.
Curries - Lao food is like Thai food, perhaps with a little more spice. The spicy salads will burn your teeth, but the deep fried spring rolls are great. Along the main road, there are dozens of restuarants with "Same Same" menus, and pretty much "Same Same" quality. The Indochina Restuarant had fantastic pizza, and you could always eat off the streets which is cheap and yummy (try a coconut waffle).
SUCK AWARD: Three Elephants Cafe - Nothing sucks more than treating yourself to a good restuarant (table cloths) and finding the service terrible, the menu overpriced, and worst of all, the food rancid. We could swallow the bill, but not the rotting beef wood curry, which I asked the server to taste because there had to be something wrong (there wasn't). Lesson learnt: Just because it has table cloths and costs three times more, doesn't mean it's worth skipping the pad thai.
Viang Vieng
Nazims - Same name, same quality. Not sure if this Indian restuarant is a franchise (not sure if Laos has franchises) but who can argue with the hot chai and melt in your mouth butter chicken.
Same Same - I went to a few other places, but the menu and the quality was all same-same.
Vientiene
Joma - Hooray for Joma! A sister branch to our fave Luang Prabang hangout, the food is outstanding, the coffee more so, wireless internet, newspapers, and a hub for travellers and locals.
Pakbang
Rat Town - It's actually called Phanthavong Guesthouse, but after spending a night with giant rats running around your room, I'm sure you'd call it Rat Town too. The proprietor, Bong, will offer cheap dope and opium, and has been known to rummage through your things when you're out for dinner too. His friend, wearing a stained white wife-beater vest, will also serenade you in his distinctly charming off-key voice. If this sounds like fun, then by all means, Rat Town is for you.
Luang Prabang
Vilay Guesthouse - I stayed at another guesthouse first but then moved to get away from the loud roosters. Vilay cost less and was 200% better...I love it when someone actually bothers to think about the look of the room as opposed to just provinding the basic essentials. Small touches mean everything to me these days. Staff are friendly, rooms are clean and quiet. Kok Sak Road. T: 071.253561. E: vilay1@yahoo.com. W: www.louangprabang.com/vilay
Vang Vieng
Vilay Guesthouse - I can't remember the name of the place we stayed at, but it was on the main street, next to Nazim's Indian Restaurant on the right, cost $4 for a double and was clean and modernish. Alternatively, alot of people prefer to stay on the river (there's a place called Orchid that seemed popular). More guesthouses are being built as I write, and most are pretty decent for a scary low price.
Vientiene
Santisouk Guesthouse - Central to the backpacker area (around the corner from Joma Coffeshop), old-school colonial housing with rock-hard bed and bath, but points for the red curtains and wooden floors. I felt like I was back at my old university digs. 77/79 Than Nokeokummone T: 21.215.0303
Luang Prabang
Bicycles & Waterfalls - Hire a one-speed bike and pedal around the temples, it's a glorious way to spend the afternoon. The waterfall is definitely worth checking out too.
Hive Bar - Good spot for a drink, also the place further down the road with the bonfire. Note, this does not mean the drinks are good...Lao whiskey and cocktails taste like stale fermented sugar.
Vang Vieng
Tubing - The reason everyone comes here, and you'll soon understand why. Tubes cost about $3 including transport up the river. Kick back and float down, try a few swings (Beer Lao helps) and enjoy the scenery.
Happy Shakes - Beware the "happy" food. Look, I heard the warnings too, but believe me, they mix these drinks strong. Share one shake for three of you, wait an hour, and take it from there. Tripping out is fun and all, but if you're going to take drugs, take them responsibly. Banshees eat the emotionally fragile.
Vientiene
Disco Bowling - There's nothing quite like walking into a disco bowling joint and being stared at by everyone in the house. There's also nothing quite like bowling your first strike in nine months, to the sounds of thumping Europop. Also, show me another bowling joint with a 20 page menu! More culturally authentic than getting shitfaced at another traveller bar, that's for sure. Ask a tuk-tuk driver to find you one (there's a couple not too far from the Novotel).
