Remember, these are only the places I managed to get to, representing not a splash in the ocean, a fart in a hot tub, a mullet in a trailer park, a...you get the idea. Consult your Lonely Planet, Rough Guide, Lets Go, Fodors, Local Shaman for dozens of other options. Sometimes, I wish I had.

Split

The Pizza Joint - Everthing was so expensive, so besides trips to the supermarket, the only other eatery that reallly got punished was the pizza joint near the dope pope statue. Slices cost about $1.50, and were yummy.

Vis

Kod Paveta - If you find yourself on this island, head up along the waterfront, past the open air cinema and find Dinko's spanking eatery. The food is superb and reasonably priced, and Dinko cooks up a mean fish BBQ at the back. Ivana Farolfija 42.

Split

Hostel Split - Of the 36 points that make my ideal hostel, the Hostel Split, which is really just a small room with 8 bunks, a tiny kitchen and bathroom, had 1. Good mattresses, 2. Good pillows, 3. Good location, and 4. Enda, a friendly, generous patron. Not much else, but sometimes 4 is all you need.

Vis and Hvar

Private Accommodation - As soon as you're off the ferry, you'll be accosted by various men and ladies to stay in their apartments. Use your gut. Some of them are rip-offs, others have great value. Play them off against each other. "Hey, she's offering me the same for less!" Then watch them bad-mouth each other. Super fun.

Debrovnik

Apartman Anita - Goran and his daughter Marghertia have a few apartments to choose from, and the one we stayed in was on the 6th floor in Lapad, and was fantastic...clean, central, with a great sunset and view. Apartments are either shared with other travelers or see if you can rustle up a few new buddies on the ferry. Email Goran at goran.lucin@du.htnet.hr


Split

Beaches - ditch the overpriced cafes and head for the beaches. The number 12 bus (itself overpriced) takes you to the left and a couple of small but gorgeous pebble beaches full of teenagers preening themselves. Walk past the bus station to another beach with cafes and bars that also party, especially on weekends. Beers cost about $2-3US, spirits more.

Hvar

Carpe Diem - Along the waterfront, here's a bar that really makes you feel like you could be rich and famous. The music is chillout, well-dressed folks are just a few steps from their huge yachts, the menu is entertaining and the drinks expensive.

Debrovnik

Dubrovnik Premium Services - If you're looking for someone to help you arrange activities, book tours, or even suggest a good, cheap restaurant, get in touch with Jerney. He'll sort you out, no problem. www.dubrovnik-ps.com
Adria Adventures - There are quite a few companies offering sea kayaking trips, here's my Gonzo choice by far. Not only are they young and hip and, in the words of Zoolander, "really really really good-looking", their equipment is new, they're fully licensed and they've got some wicked options. www.adriatic-sea-kayak.com
Park Prevlaka - A former military base now turned into a fledgling adventure park, Prevlaka has paintball, an ATV course, climbing, and a peaceful pebble beach with crystal water overlooking Montenegro. The hour drive from Dubrovnik is gorgeous too. www.prevlaka.hr