Eat, Sleep, Play - Cambodia
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Cambodia is going to surprise you. There are funky restaurants serving up delicious food, modern clubs and entertainment centers, basic but clean accommodation, and yet everything is so affordable it’s hard not to order that extra cocktail. When you compare the rural state of chaos and the wi-fi cafes playing hip urban chillout music, it feels like the country is operating in parallel universes. Below are the establishments and activities I stumbled upon. Names should suffice instead of addresses, which don’t help much. Just ask your moto driver!
EAT
Phnom Penh
Boddhi Tree Restaurant - Although it’s location is a little weird, there’s nothing odd about the menu. It’s the kind of place where you wish you could order everything! The portions are huge, the quality is exceptional, it’s like eating at a top notch restaurant for a fraction of the price. Located opposite the horrofic S-21 prison musuem, you’re not going to be in a good mood. But you can appreciate how lucky you are to be alive, and appreciate the amazing meal before you.
Siem Riep
Blue Pumpkin - Like being in a upscale, modern New York restaurant, except the food is excellent and cheap. All white decor, iTunes for customers to build their own playlists, free wireless internet, and outstanding menu. The long white couch is a great place to lose and afternoon or evening. Same group (French/Thai) also have a store called Angkor Cafe opposite Angkor Wat, which has the same menu but costs a little more than than Blue Pumpkin in town.
Red Piano - A 100 year-old French colonial building that overlooks pub street. Sit upstairs to avoid the limbless beggars, and watch the crowds go by. Good, cheap grub, especially the Khmer curries. Apparently the hangout of the Tomb Raider cast when they were shooting in town.
SUCK AWARD - The Taj Mahal. Uninspired lacklustre Indian food, a far cry from the “Best Indian in Town”. In Cambodia, everything is the “Best in Town”. Flags of the world are on the walls for entertainment.
Sihanoukville
Bamboo Light - Outstanding Sri Lankan (think Indian) food, in a low-lit, romantic setting, once again conforming to the expensive experience for cheap cheap that makes Cambodia so much fun. The eggplant broke new highs, as did the pineapple fish curry. Please sir, can I have some more…eggplant?
Holy Cow - “Vegetables have been washed in Holy Water” reads the menu, and this funky, socially conscious joint will make you feel great because you’re eating great. Excellent pastas, soups, and what the hell is “Love Juice” on the chocolate cake anyway? Boom Boom Room provides great tunes in the background.
La Trattoria on Victory Hill - For me to say this is the best pizza I’ve had in years says something. I like my pizza, thin crust and tasty, full of veggies and easy to swallow. This mom and pop joint doesn’t go for the fancy frills, just oven-baked pizza perfection, salads with plenty of dressing, and a French granny to serve it with a smile. T: 012.489.633
SLEEP
Phnom Penh
Guesthouse # 9 Sister - Lakeside around Boeng Kak is the traveller ghetto, with all the amenities we need (internet, exchange, tour operators, cheap “happy” eateries). The guesthouses are built on the lake, so you can sit back, drink a beer and watch the sunset. Sister has free pool, hammocks, basic rooms, a great DVD library, and suprisingly excellent food. It also has helpful staff to arrange tuk-tuks, motos, weed, anything really. Find somewhere else they’re full downstairs - the shared bathroom rooms upstairs are pretty gross (rat alert).
Siem Riep
Continental Cafe and Guesthouse - Our first choice was full, so we took a chance at this joint, opposite the Old Market. High ceilings, cable TV, clean rooms (liked the towel blankets), staff who managed to organize tuk-tuks and gudies and all that, but best of all was the fantastic restuarant downstairs for breakfast. Central, good quality, you could do alot worse I suppose, but maybe you could do better?
Sihanoukville
Monkey Republic - The food is enormous and cheap, the accoms clean, the music exceptional, the pool table straight, the DVD library impressive, the drinks flowing (75c a mug of draught), so why can’t I jump and shout the Republic’s praise above all others? For one thing, it’s a bit away from the beach where you really want to be most of the time. For another, it’s run by some English guys who are cool, but not in that super-friendly yes yes yes way of the Cambodians. Dealing with westerners is easy and makes things simple, but Cambodian hospitality is that rare thing in that they genuinely want to please you and make you happy. These guys genuinely want you to stay at their spot so they can make some money. It’s a subtle difference, but a couple of times I felt attitude at the Republic when there is no need for it, and after six weeks in Asia, there’s no reason to ever feel awkward about asking the manager for something or another…so the Monkey has all the perfect components, but needs a little soul.
PLAY
Phnom Penh
The Killing Fields - You don’t play in the Killing Fields, but this is one of those things you have to do. A one day excursion to the fields, the shocking Toul Sleng S-21 prison musuem, the palace, and for those so inclined, a shooting range to have a go with an AK-47, hand grenade, rocket launcher, whatever (forget the nonsense about blowing up cows). It’s a busy, heavy day out, and not one you’ll forget in a hurry. Tuk-tuks or minibuses can be arranged easily from your guesthouse.
Boom Boom Room - the funkiest, not to mention most practical record store on the planet. Drop off your iPod, choose any albums from the tasteful catalogue of 3500 albums, and Simon and boys will load it up. Besides the super cool merch, what makes Boom Boom so essential is their choice and obvious love of music. Record companies might hate this, but artists will love the recommendations, the Boom Boom compilations, and the reality of music shopping in the future. They just wouldn’t think to find the future here in Cambodia. Stores in Siem Reap and Sihnoukville too.
Siem Riep
The Temples - They are enormous, and Angkor Wat is just one of many. You have to get either a one day pass for $20, or a three day for $40 (naturally, a two day would be ideal but these are not on offer). Your laminated ID gets checked often. Bring a passport photo. Skip the guide and buy a book for $5 which explains all much better and at your own pace. Tuk Tuks are $10 for the day and will take you anywhere you need to go. After Angkor Wat, head for Ta Prohm, which is spooky and jungled out and a great place to find your inner-Indianajones. Hiring electric bikes for $4 a day (foreigners cannot rent scooters) is fun if you have the time. Your guesthouse can organize anything you need. Absolutely stunning and unmissable, whatever the hype.
Pub Street - After a hard day wandering around ancient temples, head for Pub Street near the Old Market. Here are dozens of bars and restaurants, many with good tunes and food, happy hours that will bring a smile to your face. Buddha Lounge was cool, as was Soup Dragon, but that’s just where I managed to get to. The pedestrian street buzzes, but the beggars, many of whom are landmine victims, can get a little heavy on the 30th rotation.
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