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Like Canada, only warmer and they like cricket. That was my first impression of Australia, the first English speaking country of my trip, and unusually homogenous with life in Canada. It didn’t so much feel like travelling as visiting a different part of my own country, what with the glass buildings, funky restaurants, upmarket lifestyle and beautiful views. Substitute the kangaroo roadkill for racoon, and I’d be in real trouble. The cost was astronomical compared to Asia, so I stayed with friends and family whereever I could, and boozing was never going to be a practial economic decision. Mind you, it never is. Thanks to everyone who treated me to drinks and dinner!
Sabbaba - The best schwarmas in Bondi, and believe me, there is no shortage of Med food in Bondi. Mivami was also cheap and yummy, but not in the same ballpark as Sababba. Great salads too.
Kyushu Sushi - Located on the North Shore in Neutral Bay, my local buddies treated me to some first class sashimi at this always-busy Japanese joint. I just LOVE the BYO option in Australia…talk about saving a bundle! 9-11 Grosvenor St, Neutral Bay. Tel: 9953.8272. Closed on Sundays.
Little Creatures - Enormous, ultra-slick brewery restaurant in funky Freemantle. Attractive, funkily dressed staff bopping away, it’s like falling into some Hollywood flick, complete with a ponytailed French chef performing in the open kitchen. The view from the urinal in the men’s bathroom is of the modern brewery, and the beer was unusually good (so was the steak burger). 40 Mews Road, Fremantle. Tel: 9430.5555
Annalakshmi - A strictly vegetarian Indian buffet where you decide how much the food costs as it all goes to support charity in India. The food is pretty basic fare, but the view of the Swan River and downtown Perth is fantastic, and Mama is super friendly. She recommends people pay $25 a head, which is like charging $1000 for a can of Coke, but whatever you pay, at least you can feel good about yourself. Jetty Number 4. Barracks Square (behind the Bell Tower) Tel: 9221.3003
The Moon Late Night Cafe - Buzzing joint with art-folk and students, decked in retro furniture and art work. Had a fantastic burger, a good session of people watching. A popular Perth insider habitat. William St. Northbridge T: 9328.7474
I went budget, which meant any joint selling cheap pizza or buffet lunch. Can’t say I remember the names as I was usually drunk at the time. Sorry about that. Now hand me my beer.
Fish Frenzy - Regarded as the best fish and chips in all Australia, and not without reason. Pretty jammed with locals and tourists, the Frenzy is located at the bottom of Elizabeth Street on the pier. You order at the counter, and get the goods in cone-shaped paper, old-school style. Melt-in-the-mouth fish, seafood, great fries, about $13 - 20 for the meal. Do it!
On Harrington Street, around the corner from the Pickled Frog backpackers, there are range of yummy budget munchies, big on portions, short on prices. Local favourites, so you know you’re onto a good thing. Hit Khaow Thai (85 Harrington St) for super Thai, especially at lunch when a big bowl of green curry or cashew chicken will set you back only $6. Enormous portions at Little India (75 Harrington) on the corner, with a dozen ready-to-go curries and simply gigantic samosas. There’s a Little Bali and also a cute Italian joint opposite Little India, but be aware that most places close by 9:30pm .
Hostels - It’s back to hostels, costing about six times more for a dorm bed than an en-suite double room in Cambodia, just in case you were wondering. I’d love to recommend somewhere, but I was fortunate to stay with “rellies” and friends, and together with my wallet, I thank them profusely.
The Witch’s Hat - I looked around for a quality, central Backpacker place and this was the best I could find. All the amenities (kitchen, Internet, laundry), the Hat benefits from being walking distance to the happening Northbridge district, and also management who see the need for renting cold Jacuzzis on scorching summer days. Basic double rooms, clean bathrooms, quiet neighbourhood, and importantly, free pickup from the airport! T: 9228.4228 E: reservations@witchs-hat.com
Baywatch Manor - Margaret River is the heart of the gorgeous wine-growing region of W.A, but good luck finding budget accommodation in peak season. Instead, drive a little further south to the small village of Augusta, just a few miles from amazing beaches, rugged coastlines, and the most south-westerly point of the continent. And best of all, you can stay at friendly Neville and Jane’s Baywatch, the best backpacker joint possibly in all Australia. It’s one of those “feels like a hotel but costs like a hostel” places with every thing thought out and sorted out, including outrageously comfy beds, a massive kitchen and spotless bathrooms. Baywatch is up for sale, but hopefully it will remain a real find. T: 08 9758.1290 E: enquiries@baywatchmanor.com.au
Flinders Station Hotel - I can’t positively recommend this place, although it wasn’t bad and the location is slap-bang downtown. It’s just with 500 beds, a 24 hour bar, and tiny rooms, the place has that frat party feel of young drunk English guys and confused Japanese girls. So many people coming and going you’ll miss that personal touch, and also, the elevators suck. But the DVD library and setup is excellent, but the hyped “free breakfasts” ain’t worth waking up for, that’s for sure. At $25 a night, I could have done without the Chinese guy crashing in my bed. 35 Elizabeth St. T: 9620.5100.
The Pickled Frog - The only Backpackers with a bar (cheapest beer in Hobart to boot), and therefore a vibe, the Frog is where everyone ends up at some point. It’s got cheap internet ($3 and hour, as opposed to those $2 for 15 minute kiosks), interesting video library, pool, new mattresses and pillows, and friendly staff. Tours leave daily booked through in-house tour operator, and most discount cards (YHA, VIP, Student) are honored. Book ahead, as the place gets jammed with packers. T: 03.6234 7977
Bondi Beach - In a city with a gazillion beaches, this is the most popular. If you’re looking for whatever the hell it is people look for when they go to a beach, this is where you’ll find it. Popular drinking establishments like the Bondi Beach Hotel are within stumbling distance.
Opera Bar - Located just beneath the famous Opera House, here’s a great place for sundowners with impressive views of Harbour Bridge, the city, and the girls dressed in low-cut dresses and heels (in the late afternoon).
Northbridge - A district full of pubs and bars, some of them mullet-heavy, others funky and retro. Check out the Moon Cafe for a solid local student hangout.
WA National Parks - If you find yourself in this neck of the woods, literally, see if you can brave the 75m climb up the Dave Evans Centennial Tree. No ropes, just metal spikes into the trunk and your nerve. If you’re not afraid of heights, here’s something to make you reconsider. Check out the Leeuwin Naturaliste National Park for oceans meeting and incredible coastline scenery and beaches.
E Fifty Five - a few shops over from the Flinders Station Hotel was this funky internet joint with great DJ’s, friendly staff, comfy couches, and $2 wireless all day. Encouraged to see it was full most of the time with locals, and the low lights must make it a pretty cosy spot in winter. 55-57 Elizabeth Street
The Imperial - happening bar on a happening street. 522 Chapel Street, South Yarra. T: 9826.5255
The Devils Playground - Tasmania is all about the beaches, the hikes, the mountains. You can either rent a car and try and find the best ones, or pop on a fantastic tour with Devil’s Playground, 3 days on the West Coast, 3 days on East Coast, or 6 days on both. What made this tour special was a fantastic local guide, full of info and local secrets, great tunes, and fortunately, a pretty wild group of lunatics of all ages. No better way to explore the island and meet people, booked and departing directly from the Pickled Frog, Hobart’s most happening backpackers. Tours include accoms, transport, park fees, most meals, and activities.
Mount Wellington Descent - check out the views from the top of the mountain, and then ride down the sucker on a mountain bike. It’s about 20kms to town on winding paved road and a few off-road ones, suitable for all ages. T: 0418 234 181
Bridie O’Reilly’s - Local pub that packs in the packers and the locals. Live music, cheap beer before 10pm. Ask for directions, but not at traffic lights, where I was almost run over, asking for directions.